Wednesday, December 24, 2008

It's been too long

Soon, I think, I will give commentary to all my meanderings on Oman of 2007 and January, 2008.
I'm sure my experiences in the last 12 months have given me new insight and will find the writings of last year
naive and stale. I haven't read through the postings of last year yet but will do and will respond as I read.

Friday, January 25, 2008

The Eyes Say it All

Teaching Omani young adults has been one of the most powerful experiences I have ever had. Our students are comfortable in their skin. As Gus has pointed out since the beginning, none of them has “issues.” We could comfortably say that 98% of them have no issues. They love their families and they are kind and helpful to us and to each other. No one gets left out. Having no issues is another way of saying they are positive, open human beings with no agenda and no emotional illness. This is our experience with them.

Every student is beautiful. I have fallen in love with each of them. One gets to know each student’s heart through the eyes, voice and facial expressions, both subtle and obvious. There is no chance to pre-judge a student by way of clothes. There is no internal voice saying, “Yikes, her clothes aren’t matching.” Or, “ooh, what luscious colors she’s wearing,” or “oh, dear! Poor girl. Her clothes are too tight!” No chance for judgement – only communication through the eyes and expressiveness of the face and voice.

The norm, as students enter the class, is for them to greet me, one by one. I hear exuberant, “Hello Teacher!”s. and gentle “hello teacher, how are you?”s 75% come to interrupt my preparation for class/writing on the board, with a handshake. Most recently one student has introduced me to one of the most intimate acts I see between friends – touching noses 3 times.

Last week one of my students came in with the same brand new scarf as my brand new scarf only the colors were in reverse. She said, “Teacher, wear the scarf like this,” signaling to her headscarf. She sat me down and proceeded to put my scarf on my head. From out of nowhere another student supplied the pin. I taught the whole reading-writing class with my head and neck covered with my delicious, heavy cotton, simple, new white with black trim scarf. It was a little tight around the neck but, being “winter” here, it was cozy having something on my head (I remember that in New Jersey winters I’d wear my wool hat through the halls before class started cause it felt secure and cozy). As students entered our reading-writing class they smiled broadly and said, “very nice!” and “you are beautiful.” I was worried the scarf on the teacher might be a distraction during classs but, thankfully, class went on as normal. This being my last class of the day, I went off to meet Gus for lunch. I kept the scarf on long enough for him to see, then took it off as fast as I could. Walking from class to the cafeteria drew a lot of unwanted attention from passersby.

My dear student tells me I should wear the scarf everyday. Several days ago she and I had our weekly tutorial session. I told her that I didn’t feel comfortable because, as a Western woman, I bring on more attention wearing the scarf. It was a little embarrassing, although, I suppose, I, and everyone else, would become accustomed to it.

I appreciate the head covering and abayas (women’s full length black cloak) and disdashas (men’s full length white gown), not only for my own experience of getting to know the students through their eyes, but also for what it means to them. Covering one’s physique does make one more humble, I think. It joins the wearer to the community, being part of the whole, never being alone or singled out. Never left to one’s own devices. Yet, there is an individual, with her own individuality. These young women seem stronger and more confident than most young women I’ve met in the US (let alone this here woman when she was in her late teens and early twenties). Gus so eloquently said, “[The Omani individual] is not a free agent, which is so admired in the West. [He/She] is inextricably bound to family and community, but within that, there is freedom and unity with the Universe.”

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Now I Feel at Home

If I can walk and see nature then I feel at home. We managed to take a walk this morning and we saw green, gardens, stones, rocks, mountains, ancient, rundown adobe abodes and the local community going about the start of their day. Children were waiting for their bus, teens walking with books in hand piled 10 inches deep. It was a beautiful morning, a part of the day and world that brings me much joy and peace.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Nizwa, Oman; Friday Night for us is hump day in America

Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Nizwa, Oman; Friday night for us is hump day in America
Entry numero uno as a resident of Oman

Where to begin . . . just begin . . . Gus and I got in to Nizwa about 2:00 am, September 7th. We checked into our hotel, the Safari Hotel, where we were to stay until our apartment was ready. Within a day and a half we were dragging, rolling and carrying our 4 giant suitcases and 2 rather large carry ons on up 2 flights to Apt. 15. We have a spacious, airy 3 bedroom apt. And when I say airy . . . well, that’s a story I’ll talk about later.

We’ve had 5 days of “work.” Seminars from 9:00am to 12:00pm. After 12 we are free to take care of documentation, computer glitches, and getting settled into our apartment. The first night we were in our apartment there was no gas so our amazing neighbors, Dalia and Reg, invited us in for supper. Dalia is superwoman, taking care of us by day at the University and by night, helping us to acquire cooking gas and feeding us. This is a welcome relief while trying to get to know our way around Nizwa. She is our director's administrative assistant.

Our apartment is in the Firq section of Nizwa, half way between downtown Nizwa and the University. There are shops across the street – hardware, restaurants, some choice housewares (iron, coffeemaker, toaster - yippee!), gasoline station, and small grocery stores. I believe there are four apartments here that house English Center “lecturers.” There are also some other lecturers from other departments of the University.

So it is our Friiiiiday night AND it is the eve of Ramadan – that is if the moon is seen tonight in it’s first sliver in the waxing process. Gus and I have stocked up on enough to eat for 3 – 5 days (uh, well, I mean nights). We will head to the center of Nizwa tonight and go to the internet cafe to send emails and possibly post to our blogs. Tomorrow is a free day with no obligations except to pay the electricity bill that came today – it is from the previous tenant. Thankfully the University will reimburse us. We will most likely go back to the I.C. (hmmm . . . is that intensive care or internet café?) We need our big dose as we haven’t been able to sustain the internet habit for days and days. Withdrawal symptoms appear, such as nervous laughter when we hear things like “it took me 2 hours to down load a 32 minute audio sample on dial up.”

Ah, yes, dial up. If we get internet at our home it will have to be dial up. For the last 6 years I have said, “If I have to go back to the pace of dial up internet I will not use the internet.” Ah! as I’ve told a few friends and family, this will be a year of learning patience. I am, by nature, a pretty patient person, depending on the situation, of course. Now, I must learn perfect patience. What does that look like? Does it mean losing all attachment to all outcomes? Does it mean having faith that what must get done will be completed in its own sweet time? Does it look like a Buddhist monk? I will need a complete psychic transformation in order to not react to things that don’t get done when I want them done – a completely different perspective on what matters. Perhaps a change in my value system.

What is my value system? What is most important to me? 1. Treading more lightly on the Earth; 2. Being present and helping others. 3. Growing emotionally, spiritually and mentally. 4. Doing my best. 5. Being non-judgemental and being compassionate and understanding of others joys, pains and perspectives.

Yesterday, during seminars, we were treated to an amazing guest speaker, Khalfan Al Esry. The title of his Seminar was “Living and Working in Oman Made Easy and Enjoyable.” The subtitles of the talk were 1. We all experience culture shock; 2. Definitions may be different (ex: Definitions of time, work, business, etc.); 3. Value ladders are different (influenced by origin, race, language, beliefs, country, society, tribe, family, and organization); 4. People are different & values are changing as we transform. There’s that word “values” again.

As I live in this culture I must question my values and change my attitude about time and organization. Khalfan Al Esry asked the mostly western audience, “What’s more important, efficiency or effectiveness?” I believe that effectiveness is more important although “efficiency” implies that ones performance is “effective.” I have always said that I am a type “B” as opposed to a type “A.” Type A’s can do the amount of work I do in 48 hours in half the time and not have a mess to clean up. They seem to be more concerned with compartmentalizing the different aspects of their life into neat segments of time – work: 8 hours; dance class after work; home with family or out with friends for the evening. Me? whenever I get home from work, I get home from work. My work doesn’t go home with me but, when I’m teaching, I do spend more time at work than I do at home. My job never feels like it’s finished. There is always more to do.

We Westerners can learn a lot from Arab culture – The person we are dealing with, in any given situation, is more important than the project, the job, the goal. We need to establish trusting, helpful and considerate relationships with all we come in contact with – colleagues, bosses, employees, family and friends.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Well, it's been a long while since I've posted. I apologize to those of you who got in the habit of checking in here. You know by now that Cyclone Gonu put a dent in Gus' and my internet usage. I think it's the ethers way of saying, "Amanda, don't be so obsessed with quick communiques & instant information!"

We certainly survived the cyclone with no damage. It wasn't a pleasant experience for us but worse than that the cyclone did billions of dollars of damage to homes, businesses and infrastructure. Even more devastating was the unnecessary loss of lives. The last official report I read said 49 had died due to the storm. The unnoficial count is now between 500 - 1000. These were people who were living close to the wadis (the usually dry riverbeds)in bungalows or shacks.

And now their families - uncles, brothers, cousins - are all laboring long days to put it all back together. The availability of day laborers, mostly from India and Pakistan, is huge. The speed with which water, electricity and highways are being put back together is phenomenal.

Gus and I escaped Muscat for 5 days and nights total on our quest for jobs. We spent 3 nights in a mountain city called Nizwa where we spoke with 3 directors of English programs for 3 different colleges. Each visit was wonderful. There were no appointments set up at specific times yet the directors took us into their offices and chatted with us for an average of 2 hours each. What a wonderful and humane experience. I will never again put up with a 20 minute interview where typical questions are asked without time for discussion! Even my interview at the American International School was like a visit with friends. The director there spent a good hour and a half with us. I am glad he's taken on more the style of the Middle East than to keep the American mentality of the quick, cold interview.

So, Gus and I were offered the job that we most wanted - at the University of Nizwa. We will both be working in the same school, same department. Just like we'd hoped. And we'll be working with a director whom we greatly respect. He is a Tunisian and knows how to bridge the culture of the Western teachers to the culture of our Omani students and their families. We spent a good 2 hours with him and talked like we were old friends. He gave us a good picture of what is expected of us and how best to connect with our students. We are looking forward to our return here on Sept. 1st.

And we are also looking forward to a summer in Bucks County. We miss the cool nights and the smell of green. We'll have all of July and August with family and friends. We'll use much of our time to unclutter our home to make more space for our boys, Aaron and Christopher. They are a Godsend - taking great care of the home and animals on Old Bethlehem Road. I also hope to fly on down to Ft. Lauderdale to spend time with Michela, Ameenah & Zaikiah. Hopefully they will come enjoy a long weekend with us up in PA as well.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Sat. June 2 - Monday, June 4

Saturday, 2 June 2007

It’s the first day of the workweek. We had a nice weekend with Ken and friends.
Wed. night we started out with drinks at the Grand Plaza Hotel just up the street.
Or was that Thursday night? No, that was Wed. night. Gus and I had a beer and Ken had sparkling wine. This, of course, is a novelty because if one doesn’t have a license to buy alcohol (wine, beer, hard liquor) one has to go to a hotel bar. It’s a good time to live without it! After our cherished drink we went off to an Indian Restaurant where Ken told the waiter to make everything very, very hot. I quote “Kill us!” Boy did they. Arghhhh. He’d been complaining to us that they never make it hot because of all the British residents who don’t like spicy hot. Well, the waiter & cook took him seriously. I managed to eat the leftovers with yogurt. Lots of yogurt. Yogurt is good here and plentiful.

On Friday we had some of Ken’s friends over, all English teachers. They are very helpful in giving us a good idea of what we are getting into and on giving us advice about who to talk to for work.

Saturday we were off to the races to go see the recruiting firms. We met with Edmund of GlobNet to urge him to place us . . . he said it was not up to him but would certainly place us once he got our CV’s with Ken’s signature on them. Ken had sent them to him months ago. So, we’re getting a bit of the run around but this is what it is like. We must play our cards right – have them all lined up in a row. We’ll visit with each deciding party of which there are 3 – the hiring firm, the Higher Education Ministry (which Ken is a part of) and the directors of the English programs. In the end Edmund said he and his boss both agreed that Gus’ age is not a problem but my lack of experience teaching adults is. They will then try to place us in either Shinas or Ibri, not Muscat.

We enjoyed our meeting with Edmund. At one point he asked us, out of the blue, if we were Republican or Democrat. Well, it wasn’t completely out of the blue. We had said we prefer to teach in a laid back country like Oman rather than a major business center like Dubai because we wanted to get away from commercialism and shopping malls. So, Dem or Repub? Neither. So then he asks, “Green?” He knows a lot about US politics it seems.

Monday 4 June 4, 2007

Another day with early morning brisk beach walk and a swim. I swam over 100 breast strokes. And a much needed afternoon siesta! After my siesta I couldn’t bear to put on any of my heavy linen clothes so I put on my new Indian tunic and pants, turned on Indian radio and prepared an Iranian eggplant appetizer with saffron, walnuts and yogurt (mint, turmeric, garlic, onion, lemon juice, fresh mint, lots of oil to fry the eggplant, salt & peppah). Now it chills. To serve, sautee a small amt. of onion, pour small amount of olive oil over top of dip, sprinkle onion on and garnish with mint. Should be good, eh? It was a little more labor intensive than I like. The recipe called for using corn oil, mayonnaise and butter. I skipped the mayo and butter. Next time I’ll brush the thin eggplant slices lightly with olive oil and broil. Then chop it up and mix in to my tastes – garlic, saffron, pine nuts, yogurt, and whatever else is at hand.

Things I find pecular:
• Water usage seems a bit high – irrigation of landscaping, the need to keep one’s
car clean (there are fines for having a dirty car in Muscat)
• Wearing black in the sun on a day that is above 65 degrees F, let alone above
100!
• Over use of plastic bags.
• In a country preparing for living with less oil I am surprised they are not building
public transportation systems and conserving paper, electricity and
plastics (less dependence on plastics is needed)

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Oman Monday - Tuesday, May 28-29, 2007

Monday, May 28, 2007

On Saturday we walked up to the Royal Plaza Hotel and rented a car. It seemed odd to me to have to do this but I realize most folks do that when traveling abroad. I’ve just always skimped – tried to do what the locals do --> hop on the back of a pickup, pay a pittance and smell exhaust while the driver went around hairpin curves and passed other vehicles without enough view of what might be oncoming . . . or by bus, taxi or train. In Muscat there is not that option. We will be traveling to other cities to look at universities and hopefully get some interviews.

Renting the car was a positive experience. The man we rented from is an Omani and is the only Omani we’ve had a conversation with. He mentioned that he is a welder and that it comes in handy because his family has animals. Of course I lit up and asked what animals they had. Birds (doves, parrots), goats, dogs, chickens, a cow. He did mention that the family has some land somewhere outside of the city. I assume it is a farm. The truly delightful moment in our conversation came up when he said that Islam forbids the keeping of dogs (It is “haram” – forbidden), but he pointed out that he thinks it’s fine to have dogs and that it really depends on how one feels in their heart. Basically, he was saying that it is what you believe. Ah! now he’s speaking my language. It is all about one’s beliefs and conditioning.

Yesterday I had an interview at the The American International School of Muscat (TAISM). It was a wonderfully long interview and I believe the World Language Coordinator and I are a good match for 2nd language acquisition philosophy. The job would be part time (50%), teaching Spanish to 3rd – 6th grades. I would really like the job but it will depend where Gus can be hired. If he gets a position in Muscat I will most likely go for this job, although I will interview for other posts teaching English as a Foreign Language. I really should try to get into that as it will help me grow as a language teacher. Not that working for TAISM won’t be growthful. It seems it will definitely be growthful as there is a lot of support and colleague collaboration .

Just 5 hours later – 3:29PM – and our calendar is full of visits, interviews and entertainment – thanks to Ken. Tomorrow Gus has an 11:00 interview at the Modern College of Business and Science. We hope to then drive to a city where there is a college Ken recommends and will meet the English Dept. director. Then back to the house by 5:00 to freshen up for a dinner talk given by Mike, the author of the Tagine and Masala recipe book. That should be fun . . . and delicious. More on that afterwards.

Wednesday we meet the director of the Eng. dept. of Naswah – Ayatolah. If all goes well he will want us to come up to his college in Nazwah. This city is known for its goat market. I can’t wait to see lots of goats. If we live there maybe we can purchase a milking goat . . . hmmm. There apparently won’t be much else to do but read, write, and meditate. I’ve always wanted to be stuck somewhere with Gus with nothing to do. Trapped with him and lots of good books. Nazwah might be just the place.

Wednesday, 30 May 2007

Gus and I had a driving adventure yesterday. The streets in this city are not laid out on a grid. It’s been pointed out to us that they couldn’t do so because of the geology. This area used to be little villages and villas tucked into areas where it was possible to build. The geological layout is rock. To create a joined Muscat they’ve had to blast much of the rock and have built a major highway running through. Of course the building continues as the demand for housing grows.

Our adventure started out with the search of the Modern School of Business and Science.
Ken showed us where it was on the map saying it was close to the skating rink (yes, ice skating in the desert). Our map is not accurate nor is there such a thing because the layout of the land, the roads and building continue to change every day. But, the map was the only guide so we took the roads that were to lead to the college and stopped to ask directions when we knew we were in the vicinity. I went into an office in a strip mall and asked the clerk at the front desk. He said he did not speak English well enough but signaled that he would get someone. He called into the back room and apparently explained where I wanted to go. The man tried to tell the clerk what to tell me and the clerk motioned for him to come up to the front and talk directly to me. I guess the English speaking Omani was shy. At first our English speaker told us we were to drive another 12 kilometers so I emphasized the name of the college again and the fact that it was near the skating rink. Phew! The next set of directions were perfect and got us to the college quite easily.

The interview turned out to be not quite and interview – just a meeting. We met with Dr. Mouhiba (everyone refers to her on this “first name basis” plus, with a PhD. she is a Dr. – Ken too is a doctor – Dr. Ken – somehow Dr. Mouhiba sounds more official to my ear), a Tunisian, who casually mentioned she was sorry Dr. Bernard was not there and that we’d have to meet with him. Funny, cause the appt. was set up for that moment. Dr. Mouhiba almost seemed to not know why we were there. We enjoyed talking with her and left her with all our teaching documents. Then off we went to find our way to the highway to drive north to Al Musana where we were to meet Nihad, director of the English dept. at the Tech. College. Ken urged us to meet with her even though she would not hire us.

The drive was about 2 hours going 119 kph – once our speedometer hit 120 (the speed limit) an alarm went off in the car. The first time it happened there was a police car passing us on the left. Was our car alerting us? Did the police send out a signal? No, apparently every car has this alarm once it hits 120. Hmmm . . . then why are all those cars passing us at 125 or 130? Earplugs? No. There are 3 or 4 guys per car, relaxed, talking. They have an alarm going off too?

Our meeting with Nihad was very nice. She gave us a lot of information about what the students are like and what the department’s expectations are. Again we were told that classes would have to be very structured and that we were to be very strict or else the students would rule the class.

Ah! I almost forgot to mention, I got a call from the director of the American School (TAISM) to let me know they would like me to take the 50% position teaching Spanish to 3rd – 6th. The following year should grow to full time. My taking the job will all depend on where Gus gets hired.

More to come . . .